Wakayama, Japan—
Loopwheel cotton knit

Known for the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, Wakayama grew into a hub of knit production after World War II. At that time, many factories used loopwheel machines to produce fabric. However, as efficiency became the priority, faster machines such as sinker knitting machines took over. Today, only a few makers in Wakayama continue to operate loopwheel machines.

Each loopwheel machine has its own character, and operating it requires practiced skill. While many factories abandoned loopwheel machines in favor of efficiency, the maker creating Futo’s fabric gathered old machines from across the country to preserve traditional techniques.

A loopwheel machine is suspended from the ceiling, letting the knitted fabric fall naturally into a tub below. Because the yarn is never forcibly stretched but instead knitted in a relaxed state, it yields fabric that is soft and supple, yet highly durable.

Loopwheel knitting is extremely inefficient, producing only about a meter of fabric per hour. Yet craftspeople devote the time and care to continue working with these old machines, because the rich texture of the fabric, almost like hand-knitting, is truly one of a kind.

The carefully knitted fabric goes through a series of processes, from dyeing to sewing. At every stage, we work with highly skilled makers to enhance the natural qualities of the fabric without compromising its texture.